Aeroworks 96″ Extra-260 ARF QB™

Down to the flying field… Team Joe in matching Jersey Modeler Ts:

Team Joe happy to watch Mark do the flip’n:

Joe Nolasco giving the thumbs up:

And, taxi’n out for the maiden… :

Maidened today! :-)

VIDEO:

Early impression: Rocco makes incredibly badass little planes!

Okay, some of you emailed me that you were worried about Monkey. He was fine, his new gf (he already dumped the blonde, lol) cut him loose while we were out flying. I’m worried he’s plotting his revenge:

Anyway, next day Monkey shows up cuz’ JB from the Cirkus was hang’n out with Team Joe at the shop:

Monkey was wrenching on his plane and JB was asking if he could help:

Monkey showed him what he wanted him to do:

‘Guess Monkey didn’t like JB’s dremel’n cuz’ he put the monkey smackdown on ‘m. Guess he’s still al little miffed about being taped up:

Monkey told me if you want sump’n done right you gotta do it yourself:

I got an email asking, “why are you using JR 8711′s. From other posts I thought you were a Hitec user?” I responded… on the 8711s versus prior servos I enjoyed… the 8711s are currently the best servo available, IMO, so I’m totally enjoying flying them now. It is impossible not to notice, in the air, how much different an 8711 is from a 5955. Times change, new better products keep coming out. Hitec is suppose to release a new 5955, the 7955 that has double the resolution of the 5955. That should tell you two things. One, the 5955 needed alot more resolution, twice as much, at least. And, two… why I switched. Beyond the resolution (which is a huge thing), the 8711 is still a =far= more powerful servo.

Nothing wrong with using Hitec 5955s (or even 5985s setup right and in the right applications), they are great servos, and great bang for the buck. But, if a guy can afford the JR 8711s they most definitely will make your plane fly better — feel better — be better. IMO, it is just a dreamy servo, and far superior to any servo I’ve ever flown before. But, you know, if we setup Kyle with Hitecs and me with JRs… Kyle is still going to win. lol So, in the end, the thumbs are more important. lol But, I’m telling ya’, these 8711s are majorly powerful and have awesome resolution… which makes them =feel= really really nice.

I got an email asking, “I am having trouble with a wing dropping when I pull up from a dive or in level flight when I pull the power back and pull up hard. The right wing always goes first. … I started adding weight to the wing tip to see if it was out of balance and at this point I have 1 oz of weight on the tip and it does not seem to be helping the problem any. Should I just keep adding weight until it goes away or is there another problem I am not seeing. Thanks.” I responded… Are you using a wood prop? Planes tend to be like a car in neutral going down a hill that way, sometimes (ever try to land a plane with a small pitch prop?). For precision/sport flying I think a Mejzlik 27-10 would be the ticket. It keeps a more constant “pull” even when you slow down for radiuses.

What you’ll notice, if you’re doing freestyle, is that if you slow down you will not even be able to drop a wing. If you’re going slow you can hammer full up elevator and the plane will just go into a high alpha harrier totally locked. Once stalled this plane is locked in hard. Also, while flying on the wings the plane is locked in. But, in between the two, especially with a small wood prop, you might need to ‘fly’ it.

I got an email asking, “Two things Joe, are you saying the mejzlik would be good for freestyle also? And do you remember off the top of your head the length of 1/4-20 engine bolt you used?” I responded… Props are a funny thing. Not funny haha, lol, but funny about flying skill level, type of flying, etc. Okay, when I first start flying I was trying my hardest to torque roll a H9 CAP/DA-100 and I was really struggl’n. When I bought the motor, my first DA, and one of the very first DA-100s… Jason Shulman was working at DA, and he told me a Menz 27-10 would have me TR’n with ease. But, they didn’t have any in stock. So, he had me get a Mejzlik 28-10, which they had in stock. lol Well, he was right… I struggled for a few weeks with that Mejzlik 28-10 and never got a TR. But, when the Menz 27-10 finally showed up I put it on the plane and immediately TR’d right on the runway, 5′ high. It was such a thrill, such a thrill. At my skill level at the time, going with a light wooden Menz made all the difference in the world for 3D, over a heavier slow spooling Mejzlik. But, but, lol, as you get better, or want to look better in snaps, etc (props change your snaps dramatically), you might find you like a slow spooling prop for everything. Seldom heralded, but totally amazing, Jeff Szueber (pronounced Seebur) loves to freestyle/3D a Mejzlik. Kyle freestyled a Mejzlik 3-blade forever… not sure what he’s running on “patches” currently, but he’ll run whatever is laying around. lol I am currently freestyle’n a Mejzlik on my 40% (but there was a time I would have not been able to smooth one out in the hovering). Overall the 3W 3D prop, only available for 150cc class and loud if you get on it, really flies freestyle and precision well. Props, props, props. lol Still no perfect one, like planes, engines, servos, etc. lol Which does what? Keeps us coming back! lol

A wood prop will bail you out quicker, but will also leave you on your own, with nothing pulling you when you chop the power, if you let it. A slow spooling carbon prop always has a steady pull, giving you control, but may pull you along further than you want in some situations… making you kinda fly through or further through a manuever than you wanted to. You probably have to be more ahead of it to end up exactly where you had planned, hoped to be. Which doesn’t come in to play in precision, just keeps a steady pace… but can keep you from getting your harrier rolls low until you get used to the extra pull, etc… things like that. Again, Kyle doesn’t think about, know, or care about this stuff. lol So, thumbs still win. lol

On the engine bolts, if I remember right I used the longer of the two “full thread” engine mounting bolts that www.microfasteners.com sells. The “full thread” bolts avoid the occassional problem of the shoulder of a non-full thread bolts bottom’n out in the blindnut.

SCA1440FT 4 1/4-20 X 2-1/2 FULL THREAD $ 5.00

Figured it was time for the photoshoot: