I went to install the Fromeco Wolverine Dual Switch and I noticed that the wires would get in the way of easily using the outside holes for mounting. I could have managed it, but I thought of another way that seemed slick to me. I popped off the coverplate and sanded down the plastic spacer blocks an 1/8″. Then I used some longer screws than provided (4-40 by 3/8″ bolts, is what I used) and screwed them into the white spacer blocks. Solid, slick, and easy.
I had already drilled the outside holes to run some 4-40s through them. So I cut down some 4-40s and just glued them in for looks. That way they wouldn’t run into, or cut, the wires on the inside. Anyway, it worked good for me:
Here it is all finished up:
And, some notes:
Worked so good on the Wolverine I thought I’d try it on the Badger… this time I drilled smaller outside holes so the 4-40s would bite into the wood and not need gluing:
And, all finished up… also showing the fuel dot installed, the one I got from http://www.awesomehobbies.com :
I mounted up the ignition, ignition battery, and ignition regulator, as well:
I used 8 cable ties to mount the ignition:
I used four different sizes of spiral wrap on the ignition wires and cables to protect them from damage:
I use blue painters tape on the few connections I have inside the back of my planes (alot of times I just solder everything). It is better than standard masking tape and does a good job for me. Around the motor box I go ahead and use black electrical tape. I used to need real good, fresh tape and very clean hands to keep the tape from peeling up. Now I can use any old crusty tape and dirty hands. I just heat the tape up with a lighter; after that it sticks great and doesn’t peel up:
I mounted the fuel tank and two Fromeco 5200mah “Grunt” packs. We’ll have to see how the CG works out to decide if they’ll stay here or not:
I also ran the vent line out the bottom of the fuse using the Aeroworks provided grommet. I loop the vent line around the back of the tank to avoid spillage. There is line included from Aeroworks but with this additional vent line routing, and my 3-line clunk setup, I ended up using some DUBRO fuel line as well:
First day back after the accident, had to see doctors, lawyers, auto repair guys, et al (thanks to the drunk driver), and other catch’n up, too. But, managed to get the 2nd rudder servo in and get both rudder servos programmed (will take pics tomorrow/Wednesday). That’s it for the programming… next plane I’m thinking no programming, maybe JR 8711s and unihubs… they look too good not to try. Anyone know when Futaba will come out with the brushless motor servos?
Planning on mounting up the throttle servo and its linkage tomorrow, and lastly just run the elevator extensions down the fuse. Then I’ll throw it together and weigh it. Maiden with Dunny (with video camera in hand) on Thursday is the plan.
Oh, here’s a pic of my spinner, though… these BMEs need an adapter, but naturally TruTurn already knows that and makes one:
Again, this is one of the many strong features of the Aeroworks QB planes… an easy, perfect pull/pull rudder setup. Just bolt the gear down, it will be perfect, no figure’n ‘tal:
Aeroworks provides most of the hardware and it’s great stuff. I have certain stuff I always use cuz I assemble alot of planes and keep this stuff in stock…
… and there is more stuff here than it looks like… so here is a breakdown for the guys that want to use what I did… from www.microfasteners.com , Airwild Hobbies, ZAP, DUBRO, and Hanger9.
Put the thing together, all up weight?… 26 lbs, 4 ounces. That’s stock aluminum wing tubes and stock aluminum landing gear (stock axles and tires, but you aren’t going to save any weight changing them). Also two, that’s two, 5200mah RX packs and one 2600 ignition pack. Lots of velcro and I didn’t do anything to save weight. I could take over a pound out of this thing easy, but I think it will be so light that I’ll be adding a smoke system. 
The plane was weighed as I always weigh them… all together, in one piece, on a calibrated postage scale. This same scale has weighed fellow modelers planes at 0-6 lbs heavier than their scales. lol
I do have a couple of very minor complaints about the assembly, 1) I’d like the outboard aileron servo a few inches in toward the root (wouldn’t be hard to change either, might just do it) , and 2) my blindnuts didn’t line up perfectly on the hatch, I might change them out to 6-32s and line them up better in the process. But, as for the flying?, ain’t gonna be no complaints there. I’ve known since I saw the prototype a year ago that this thing was a flyer, never was any doubt about that. I need only look at a plane to know how it will fly. A light winged 26 lbs 104″ Yak?… how bad could it fly? LOL But, yeah, videos… I know. lol
I picked up one of these DUBRO “car” allen wrenches awhile back. They look different than the “air” wrenches… makes them easier to recognize when they end up in my friend’s tool boxes. lol They’re also more comfortable and are easier on the hands. They look cooler, too, to me:
Also, I wanted to mention earlier, when I was doing the tank… I see alot of mangled looking vent tubes out there. I got to thinking about that when I used a crimp flow regulator for the smoke line. I barely crimp the line and the flow is dramatically effected. Now I know with the vent we’re talking about air not oil. But, engine manuals do say we need the vent the same size as the fuel delivery size. And, kinks would make them unequal… and just for GP alone. Anyway, I’m sure you guys have seen these gems from DUBRO, but they do work like a charm to make kink free bends:
I started pulling out the extensions and direct soldering them and putting dean’s 1003s on the ends:
Put the last few Kirbys graphics on, too:
Well, ain’t much room between the carb and the standard mufflers. Had all the geometry and resolution perfect… but I’ve seen balls melt when they’re that close. Could have offset the throttle arm and went with a metal clevis, I’ve done that before. Anyway, here’s what I have setup right now:
But, I decided to change it. I mounted the throttle arm down instead of up. The arm is 1-3/8″ long pivot point to pivot point. The servo arm is 1″ long. With that I got 120/120 ATV on an unprogrammed servo. That’s real nice resolution. I can get up to 127/127 ATV and still have the leverage to tightly shut the butterfly, I’d have to have gone about 1-7/16″ on the throttle arm. But, I’ll take 120/120 ATV:
Dunny and Jim Orsi will like this, lol, I lowered the servo for better geometry now that the throttle arm was lower… we call this “big time modeler” work… or BTM for short. lol I usually avoid doing anything BTM style, but here it is in all its BTM glory:
